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If you’ve ever glanced at your running watch mid-run and seen “cadence: 158” flash up with no context, you’ve probably had one of two reactions: mild panic that you’re doing something wrong, or complete indifference because you don’t know what the number means. Both are fair. Cadence is one of those metrics that gets thrown around a lot — usually alongside the claim that 180 steps per minute is the magic number everyone should be hitting — without much explanation of what it actually does for you or whether it’s worth the hassle of changing.
Here’s the honest version: cadence matters, but not in the “hit this exact number or you’re running wrong” way it’s often presented. It’s one lever, among several, that affects how your body absorbs impact and how efficiently you move. For some runners, a few extra steps per minute genuinely reduces niggles and improves how a run feels. For others, chasing a specific number does nothing except make them feel self-conscious about something that was never broken.
This is for the runner who’s heard the term, maybe seen their own number looking “low” compared to internet advice, and wants to know what’s actually worth doing about it — without turning every run into a metronome experiment.
What running cadence actually is
Cadence is simply how many steps you take per minute — both feet combined. Most running watches calculate it automatically using an accelerometer, so if you’ve got a GPS watch from the last several years, you’ve probably got this data already, buried in a screen you never look at.
The widely cited “ideal” of 180 steps per minute traces back to observations of elite runners at the 1984 Olympics, where many distance runners clustered around that figure. It got repeated so often it became gospel. But elite runners are also running much faster than most of us — a sub-3 marathoner cruising at 4:15/km and someone running a comfortable 6:30/km are moving at very different speeds, and cadence naturally scales with pace. Comparing your easy-run cadence to an Olympian’s race-pace cadence isn’t a fair fight.
A more realistic range for everyday runners, at easy-to-moderate paces, is 160–175 steps per minute. Slower runners, taller runners, and anyone running conversationally will often sit lower than that — and that’s not automatically a problem.
Why cadence gets so much attention
The theory behind cadence work is reasonably solid: a lower cadence often (not always) comes with a longer stride, which can mean your foot lands further out in front of your body — what’s sometimes called overstriding. When your foot lands ahead of your hips rather than underneath them, the braking force on impact tends to be higher, and more of that force travels up through the knee and hip rather than being absorbed through a shorter, quicker step.
Increasing cadence slightly — not dramatically — tends to shorten stride length naturally, which can reduce that braking force and the associated loading on the knees. This is part of why cadence drills get recommended for runners dealing with certain overuse issues, including some cases of runner’s knee and related impact-related pain.
But — and this is the part that gets left out of most “just run at 180” advice — cadence is not the only variable, and it’s not a guaranteed fix for injury. If you’re dealing with something specific like Achilles pain, the cause is more often tendon loading than stride rate, and cadence changes alone won’t resolve it; it’s worth reading about what’s actually going on if you’re managing Achilles tendinopathy directly rather than assuming a cadence tweak will sort it.
How to check your current cadence
You don’t need lab equipment. Three practical options:
- Your GPS watch. Most modern watches display cadence as a data field you can add to a run screen, or you can find average cadence in the post-run summary. If you’re shopping for a first watch and want this built in reliably, it’s worth checking our breakdown of budget GPS watches under £150.
- Manual count. On a flat, easy-paced stretch, count how many times your right foot hits the ground in 30 seconds, double it, then double it again (to account for both feet). It’s rough, but it works with no equipment at all.
- A running app. Several free apps use your phone’s accelerometer if you run with your phone on you.
Check this on an easy run, not a race or a hard interval session — cadence shifts up naturally as you speed up, so measuring it at a 10K pace tells you nothing about your easy-run habits.
Should you actually try to change it?
Not automatically. This is the bit that gets skipped in most articles pushing cadence drills.
Consider changing your cadence if:
– You’ve had recurring knee pain with no other obvious cause (shoes, sudden mileage increase, hard surfaces)
– A coach or physio has specifically flagged overstriding after watching you run
– Your cadence sits notably low (under 150) even on easy runs, and you’re curious whether a small shift helps how your legs feel afterwards
Leave it alone if:
– You’re not in pain and nothing feels wrong
– You’re newer to running and still building a consistent habit — this is not the time to add another variable
– You’re already managing a lot of changes (new shoes, increased mileage, a training plan) — introduce one thing at a time
Cadence drills done for no reason, with no problem to solve, mostly just make your easy runs feel awkward and effortful for zero benefit.
How to actually improve it — gradually
If you’ve decided it’s worth adjusting, the mistake most runners make is trying to jump from 160 to 180 overnight. That’s too big a change, too fast, and your calves and Achilles will not thank you for it (shorter, quicker steps load the lower leg differently, and sudden changes are how new niggles start).
Instead:
Increase by 5–8% at a time. If you’re at 160, aim for 170 — not 180. Hold that for several weeks before considering another small bump.
Use a metronome app or playlist with matched BPM. Set it to your target cadence and run to the beat for short stretches — 2–3 minutes at a time within an easy run, not the whole session.
Think “quick and light,” not “fast.” The goal is shorter, snappier steps, not covering more ground per stride. Cueing yourself with “quiet feet” or “light landing” often works better than consciously trying to speed up your legs.
Add cadence drills to a proper warm-up, rather than trying to adjust mid-run when you’re already tired and your form is breaking down anyway. A few strides at your target cadence after a warm-up are more useful than fighting your natural rhythm for 10km.
Be patient — this takes 6–8 weeks, not one run, to feel remotely natural. Your nervous system has years of practice at your current stride pattern; it won’t rewrite that in a week.
A practical cadence reference
| Pace (per km) | Typical cadence range (spm) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 7:00–6:30 (easy/recovery) | 150–165 | Lower is normal here — don’t force it up |
| 6:00–5:30 (steady) | 160–172 | Where most everyday runners sit comfortably |
| 5:00–4:30 (tempo) | 168–178 | Cadence rises naturally with effort |
| Sub-4:00 (race pace, faster runners) | 175–185+ | Not a target for most easy-run training |
These are ranges, not rules. A 5’2″ runner and a 6’3″ runner at the identical pace can have genuinely different natural cadences because of leg length and stride mechanics — comparing yourself to a friend’s watch data is rarely useful.
Where cadence fits into the bigger picture
Cadence is one small piece of a much larger puzzle that includes your weekly mileage, your easy run pacing, your strength work, and basic things like whether you’re increasing training load too quickly. If you’re chasing a specific race goal — say, working through a 10K training plan or building towards your first half marathon — cadence tweaks are a minor adjustment, not a training strategy. Don’t let it distract from the fundamentals: consistent easy running, gradual mileage increases, and enough recovery.
If you’re not injured and your runs feel fine, the most valuable thing you can do with your cadence number is largely ignore it.
The Honest Takeaway
- Check your cadence on an easy run, not a hard one — the number means nothing out of context.
- Don’t chase 180 spm. It’s a myth born from elite race-pace data, not a rule for your Tuesday morning 5K.
- Only adjust cadence if you’ve got a specific reason — recurring knee pain or a flagged overstriding issue — not out of vague anxiety about a watch metric.
- If you do adjust it, move in small steps: 5–8% increases, held for weeks, not overnight jumps to a round number.
- Prioritise consistency, gradual mileage build, and recovery over cadence — it’s a fine-tuning tool, not a foundation.